Poultry egg incubation — temperature, humidity and hatch time
Incubation — artificially hatching eggs in an incubator — lets you raise chicks without a broody hen. We explain the key conditions: temperature, humidity and egg turning, and provide indicative hatch times for the most common poultry species.
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Artificial incubation is used wherever chicks are needed without a broody hen — on commercial farms, by hobby breeders and in industrial hatcheries. The incubator replaces the warmth of the hen's body and mimics her movements that naturally turn the eggs. The final result depends not only on the machine but also on the quality of the eggs placed inside — details in the guide on storing hatching eggs.
What is the difference between an incubator and a hatcher?
The incubator is where eggs spend most of the incubation period — they are heated and turned here. The hatcher is a separate chamber (or a section of the same machine) where eggs are moved in the final days before hatching. In the hatcher, higher humidity helps the chick escape the shell and the eggs are no longer turned. In small domestic incubators the hatcher is often built in — turning is simply stopped and humidity is raised.
Why are the numbers in this guide indicative?
Incubation conditions vary between incubator models (forced-air or still-air), breeding lines and seasons. Always read your incubator's manual and monitor hatch results. If hatchability is low, go back to basics: egg quality, temperature, humidity and turning.
Indicative hatch time by poultry species
Indicative times — depend on breed line, temperature and incubator humidity. Each species also has slightly different temperature and humidity requirements.
Chicken (~21 days)
The most common species in incubation. Indicative hatch time approx. 21 days. Temperature in a forced-air incubator approx. ~37.5–37.8°C, humidity approx. ~50–60% during incubation and ~65–70% in the hatcher. Stop turning at approx. day 18. More in the guide on chicken farming.
Turkey (~28 days)
Indicative hatch time approx. 27–28 days. Conditions similar to chicken. Turkey eggs are larger with thicker shells, so heat transfer is slightly slower. Stop turning at approx. day 25. More: turkey farming.
Pekin duck (~28 days) and Muscovy duck (~35 days)
Pekin duck hatches in approx. 28 days — similar to chicken, but requires higher humidity (~55–60% during incubation). Muscovy duck needs approx. 35 days and is more demanding. Both benefit from light water misting from around day 7–14 to soften the shell. More: duck farming.
Goose (~30–31 days)
Indicative hatch time approx. 30–31 days. Goose eggs are large with thick shells — they require good incubator ventilation and regular water misting. Humidity should be slightly higher than for chickens. Stop turning at approx. day 27. More: goose farming.
Quail (~17–18 days)
The shortest hatch time among common poultry — approx. 17–18 days. Quail eggs are small and heat up quickly. Temperature monitoring is important. Stop turning at approx. day 14–15. More: quail farming.
Guinea fowl (~26–28 days)
Indicative hatch time approx. 26–28 days. Conditions similar to turkey. Guinea fowl eggs have hard, thick shells that slightly restrict moisture exchange. Light misting is recommended.
Temperature, humidity and egg turning — the three pillars of incubation
None of these factors works in isolation — temperature without adequate humidity, or no turning with perfect temperature, will significantly reduce hatchability.
Temperature — approx. ~37.5–37.8°C
The most important incubation parameter. In forced-air incubators (with a fan) the indicative temperature is approx. ~37.5–37.8°C. In still-air incubators it is slightly higher — approx. ~38.0–38.5°C because heat is not distributed evenly. A few hours of excessively high temperature can kill an embryo; too low delays development and delays hatching. Always place the thermometer at egg level, not near the heating element.
Humidity — ~50–60% during incubation, ~65–75% at hatching
Relative humidity during the incubation phase (setter stage) is approx. ~50–60%. In the final days when the chick is fully formed and begins hatching (hatcher stage), humidity is raised to approx. ~65–75%. Higher humidity during hatching prevents egg membranes from drying and helps the chick escape. Always measure with a hygrometer — do not rely solely on the incubator's display.
Egg turning — several times a day, until the final days
A broody hen turns her eggs several times a day to prevent the embryo from sticking to the membrane and to ensure even heating. In the incubator, automatic turning typically happens every 1–2 hours (at least 3–5 times a day). Eggs are not turned in the final 2–3 days before expected hatching (transfer to hatcher). If your incubator has no automatic turning, do it by hand and mark one side of each egg to track the rhythm.
How incubation works — from warming the incubator to drying the chicks
Each stage matters. Skipping one — for example omitting candling — can leave a dead egg in the incubator that contaminates the rest.
1. Warming and stabilising the incubator
Before placing eggs, start the incubator in advance — at least a few hours, ideally 24 hours. Allow temperature and humidity to stabilise at the correct level. Placing cold eggs in an unstabilised incubator causes temperature fluctuations that can harm embryos.
2. Preparing and placing eggs
Hatching eggs should be clean, undamaged and correctly stored before placement (no more than approx. 7–10 days at approx. ~12–15°C). Do not wash eggs before incubation — water removes the natural protective layer (cuticle). Place eggs with the blunt end up or horizontally depending on the incubator model. Details: storing hatching eggs.
3. Incubation phase with turning — monitoring embryo development
The main phase — from placement until approx. 3–4 days before hatching. Check temperature and humidity daily. You can candle eggs with a lamp (candler) around day 7–10 to assess embryo development — you can see blood vessels and the dark shadow of the embryo. Unfertilised eggs and dead embryos should be removed. More: embryo development in the egg.
4. Transfer to the hatcher
Approx. 2–3 days before expected hatching, stop turning the eggs and raise humidity. The chick inside shifts position — moving towards the blunt end, piercing the air cell membrane and starting to breathe air from the air cell. Do not open the hatcher during hatching — each opening drops humidity and makes it harder for the chick to escape.
5. Hatching and drying the chicks
The chick first chips through the shell with its beak (a small hole at the blunt end), then rotates and pushes off the cap. The whole process takes a few to several hours — do not assist unless the chick has made its pip and made no progress for over 24 hours. After hatching, leave chicks in the hatcher to dry — a wet chick chills easily. Once dry, move them to a brooder.
6. Hatch result analysis
After hatching, analyse the results — how many eggs hatched, how many were unfertilised, how many died and at what stage. This analysis helps detect problems with temperature, humidity, egg quality or incubator hygiene. Details: hatch result analysis.
The most common incubation mistakes
Most failures stem from a few recurring causes. Knowing these mistakes lets you avoid them before the eggs even go in.
Temperature fluctuations and misplaced thermometer
A thermometer placed too close to the heating element or near the top of the incubator will show an inflated reading. Always measure at egg level and use an independent thermometer to verify the built-in sensor.
Too low or too high humidity
Too low humidity causes excess evaporation — the embryo has insufficient space and the chick is undersized. Too high humidity leaves the air cell too small and the chick may drown during hatch. Check with a hygrometer, not just the incubator display.
Opening the hatcher during hatching
Each time the hatcher is opened during hatching, humidity drops sharply — egg membranes can dry and literally trap the chick in the shell. Open only if absolutely necessary, and as briefly as possible.
Poor hygiene and lack of disinfection
The incubator is a warm, moist environment — ideal for bacteria and mould. Disinfect after each season (and ideally between batches) with a product safe for eggs. Remove shells, down and organic debris as quickly as possible. Details on egg hygiene: egg structure.
Placing eggs in poor condition
Washing eggs before incubation removes the protective cuticle and increases the risk of embryo infection. Eggs that are too old (over ~10–14 days since laying), cracked or stored at too high a temperature show significantly lower hatchability. Egg quality criteria: egg quality — Haugh units.
Assisting a chick that is taking too long
A chick pushing out of the shell is exercising the muscles it needs for life — interrupting this often results in death or a weak chick. Only assist if the chick made its pip more than 24–36 hours ago and has made no progress, with correct humidity.
Frequently asked questions about poultry egg incubation
What temperature is needed to incubate poultry eggs?add
In forced-air incubators the indicative temperature is approx. ~37.5–37.8°C. In still-air incubators it is slightly higher — approx. ~38.0–38.5°C. Always verify with an independent thermometer placed at egg level, not near the heating element.
How many days to hatch chicken, turkey, duck and goose eggs?add
Indicative hatch times: chicken ~21 days, turkey ~27–28 days, Pekin duck ~28 days, Muscovy duck ~35 days, goose ~30–31 days, quail ~17–18 days, guinea fowl ~26–28 days. These times depend on temperature, humidity and breeding line.
What humidity is needed in the incubator?add
During the incubation phase approx. ~50–60% relative humidity. In the final days before hatching (hatcher) raise to approx. ~65–75% so membranes do not dry out. Measure with a hygrometer.
How long should I turn eggs in the incubator?add
Turn eggs throughout most of incubation — until approx. 2–3 days before expected hatching, when they are moved to the hatcher. At that point the chick is repositioning and turning could interfere. Automatic turning should happen at least 3–5 times a day.
Should I wash eggs before putting them in the incubator?add
No — washing removes the natural protective cuticle and increases infection risk. Place clean but unwashed, undamaged eggs. Lightly soiled eggs can be gently wiped with a dry cloth, but do not wet or scrub the shell.
How can I tell if an embryo is developing?add
By candling the egg with a lamp — a technique called egg candling. Around day 7–10 you can see blood vessels and the dark shadow of the embryo through the translucent shell. An unfertilised egg remains clear. More details: embryo development in the egg and how an egg is formed.
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